Transitional

Mix of curves and straight lines, mix of plinth and leg bases, wood, metal and glass casegoods.

Neutral cottons, linens, tailored velvets. Stripes, touches of geometric patterns, animal prints and menswear.

Lanterns, chandeliers with linen shades, sconces with rectangular shades, glass and crystal.

• Neutral wool, subtle tone-on-tone geometrics.
• Large scale for balance.
• Hand-knotted Persian and Oriental rugs in neutral tones.

White oak or walnut, medium stains, wide planks.

Eased edge, mitered edge for a thicker look, pencil, half-bullnose, waterfalls. Countertop carried up the backsplash.

• Flat panel with subtle detailing, shaker or modified shaker panel with minimal beveling.
• Simple curved or stepped crown.
• Mixed metals, sleek pulls.
• Neutral colors and natural stains, mixing of the two.

• Polished nickel, aged or satin brass.
• Avoid shiny chrome.
• Mixing of metals throughout the home.

Paneled accent walls, subtle grasscloth, neutral paint palettes. Crown molding simplified, beams.

Abstract, black and white photography, minimalist line drawings, modified traditional landscapes in muted colors, statement pieces — one large piece rather than gallery walls.

Eclectic meaning mixing old and new, approachable, neutral colors

• Transitional rooms are overwhelmingly solid — pattern is used as a quiet accent, never a focal point.
• Think of it as seasoning, not the main course.
• Most upholstery, drapery, and rugs should be solid or tone-on-tone textured.
• Pattern enters through pillows, a subtle rug, or a textured wallpaper accent.
• When layering, keep patterns in the same tonal family and vary the scale — never pair two patterns at the same scale.
• Maximum two visible patterns in any single sightline.

• Wide-plank white oak is the signature — 5" to 7" planks in a matte or satin finish, natural to light stain.
• Wire-brushed texture adds character without going rustic.
• Walnut works in lighter stains only.
• Herringbone is excellent at an updated scale — 4" x 24" or 5" x 24" individual pieces keep it modern rather than Victorian.
• Large-format porcelain planks (12" x 48" or bigger) in stone-look tones are ideal for mudrooms, laundry, or heated bathroom floors.
• Avoid high-gloss finishes, red-toned stains, narrow strips (under 4"), or heavily distressed boards.
• Wider planks (8"+) start reading Farmhouse or Rustic.

• Marble subway tile in Carrara or Calacatta is the workhorse — 3" x 6" for classic scale, 3" x 12" or 4" x 12" for an updated elongated look.
• Flat edge gives the cleanest lines; beveled is acceptable but reads slightly more traditional.
• Handmade zellige (4" x 4" square is the standard) in neutral glazes adds warmth and texture without pattern.
• Large-format porcelain slabs (24" x 48" or larger) minimize grout lines for sleek shower walls and backsplashes.
• Hexagon mosaic scaled up to 4" to 6" reads modern rather than vintage.
• Stick to warm whites, soft grays, and taupe.
• Avoid busy mosaics, colorful accents, or tumbled edges.

• Wool loop pile in a tight, low-profile weave for bedrooms and closets — warm neutrals like cream, warm gray, or greige.
• Cut-and-loop adds subtle tonal pattern without being decorative.
• Plush cut pile reserved for primary bedrooms only, keeping pile height under 3/4".
• Sisal-look synthetics work well for stair runners (2'6" to 3' wide) and family areas where durability matters.
• Avoid shag, bold patterns, or anything that reads as a stock carpet allowance.
• Wool Berber in light fleck tones bridges casual and refined.

• Shaker profile is the default — clean, recessed panel with a simple rail.
• Flat-panel (slab) with a subtle routed detail works for a more contemporary lean.
• Beaded inset reads more traditional but stays appropriate with simple hardware.
• Paint finish in warm whites (BM White Dove, SW Alabaster) or warm grays for the majority of cabinetry.
• Natural white oak with a clear or light finish for islands or butler's pantry contrast.
• Door proportions should feel balanced — avoid overly wide rails or narrow stiles.
• Full overlay or inset only; never partial overlay.

• Thin bar pulls in satin brass or brushed nickel — 5" center-to-center (CC) on upper doors, 6-5/16" to 7-9/16" CC on drawers.
• Round knobs (1-1/4" to 1-1/2" diameter) in brushed nickel as an alternative on upper cabinets.
• Cup pulls in champagne bronze for a gentle traditional nod on lower drawers.
• Integrated edge pulls or tab pulls in matte black for a cleaner, more modern lean.
• Hardware should feel like jewelry — simple, intentional, not decorative.
• Avoid ornate backplates, ceramic knobs, oversized ring pulls, or anything with visible rosettes.

• Brushed nickel or satin brass across the board — pick one and carry it through each space.
• Polished nickel is also appropriate and reads slightly more refined.
• Gooseneck or straight-spout kitchen faucets with single-lever or simple cross handles.
• Bathroom faucets in widespread (8" centers) for primary baths, single-hole for powder rooms.
• Undermount sinks only — rectangular in baths (19" to 21" long), single-bowl (30" to 36") or low-divide split in kitchens depending on client preference.
• Freestanding tubs with clean profiles, not clawfoot.
• Frameless glass shower enclosures, 3/8" to 1/2" glass.
• Avoid ornate fixtures, vessel sinks in main baths, or overly decorative handles.

• Linear pendants over islands scaled to roughly two-thirds of the island length — a 7' island takes a 48" to 56" pendant, a 9' island takes a 60" to 72" pendant.
• Hung 30" to 36" above the counter surface.
• Recessed lighting on 4" trim preferred (cleaner than 6"), warm white (2700K-3000K).
• Semi-flush fixtures with clean geometry in bedrooms and hallways, 14" to 18" diameter.
• Sconces flanking mirrors (4" to 5" wide, 12" to 16" tall), finish matching plumbing hardware.
• Statement chandelier in dining or entry — simple silhouette, not dripping crystal.
• Table and floor lamps with linen or white drum shades, no pleats or fussy detail.
• Avoid exposed Edison bulbs, overly industrial fixtures, or anything ornate.

• Clean-lined surround in natural stone (limestone, marble, or light-honed granite) or painted millwork with simple mantel shelf.
• Mantel width should extend 6" to 8" past the firebox opening on each side — a 36" firebox gets a 48" to 52" mantel, a 42" firebox gets a 54" to 58" mantel.
• Mantel shelf height typically 48" to 54" from finished floor, scaled to ceiling height.
• Linear gas fireplaces (60" to 84" viewing area) for a contemporary lean, set into a clean stone or plaster surround.
• Herringbone or stacked firebrick interior for traditional gas or wood-burning.
• Stone or flush hearths, 12" to 16" depth — raised or flush with finished floor.
• Avoid ornate carved mantels, river rock, overly rustic stacked stone, or heavy timber beam mantels (that's Farmhouse/Rustic territory).

• Linen or cotton drapery panels in warm whites, soft grays, or taupe — floor-length, breaking 1/2" to 1" at the floor or hovering 1/4" above.
• Rod-mounted on simple metal rods (satin brass, brushed nickel, or matte black), extending 6" to 12" past the frame on each side for fullness.
• Roman shades in flat or relaxed style as an alternative — neutral solids or very subtle texture.
• Woven wood shades in lighter tones for casual spaces.
• Panels should be lined for weight and drape.
• Avoid valances, swags, heavy brocade, or overly patterned treatments.

• Calacatta or Carrara marble for primary bath vanities and statement kitchen islands — 3cm (1-1/4") thickness, honed or polished depending on use.
• White or light quartz (Caesarstone, Cambria, Silestone) with subtle veining for kitchen perimeters where maintenance matters.
• Quartzite (Taj Mahal, Mont Blanc) bridges natural beauty and durability.
• Waterfall edges on islands (where slab wraps down the side) for a modern touch.
• Backsplash can match the counter slab for seamless look.
• Avoid busy granite, dark absolute black, or heavy brown tones.

• Eased (straight) edge is the default — clean, modern, appropriate everywhere.
• Pencil round softens the eased edge slightly for bathroom vanities and kitchen perimeters.
• Beveled edge (small 45-degree chamfer) adds subtle visual interest without ornamentation.
• Mitered edge for waterfall applications — creates a seamless corner where the slab wraps vertically.
• Ogee only if the project leans more traditional, and sparingly.
• Standard counter thickness at 3cm (1-1/4"); 2cm (3/4") is acceptable for floating shelves or furniture-style vanities but can feel thin on longer spans.
• Avoid bullnose, dupont, or triple-pencil profiles — they read dated.

• Shaker-style or clean 1-panel interior doors — solid-core, 1-3/8" thick minimum, painted in warm white to match trim.
• 8'0" height preferred throughout for proportion, 7'0" minimum.
• Hardware in satin brass, brushed nickel, or matte black — lever handles are the modern standard and ADA-friendly; round knobs are acceptable but read more traditional.
• Entry doors: 3'0" x 8'0" single or double, simple panel or glass-lite design.
• Pocket doors where space demands.
• Barn doors used sparingly and with simple flat-panel design, not rustic.
• Avoid multi-panel colonial doors (traditional 6-panel especially), ornate casing profiles, or mismatched hardware finishes across the home.

• Clean-lined wood treads (white oak to match flooring) with painted white risers.
• Simple square or rectangular balusters in painted wood or matte black metal — 1/2" to 5/8" square stock.
• Newel posts should be simple and squared, not turned.
• Handrail in natural wood (matching tread) or painted, simple rounded profile.
• Open-riser stairs where architecture allows for a more modern expression.
• Stair runners (wool or sisal-look, 2'6" wide with 3" to 4" border showing tread) for family homes.
• Avoid wrought iron scrollwork, turned balusters, or heavy ornamental newels.

• Subtle texture or tone-on-tone pattern only — grasscloth, linen-look, or fine geometric in neutral tones.
• Use as accent: powder rooms, dining room feature wall, primary bedroom behind headboard, entry or stair hall.
• Scale should be quiet — small-to-medium repeats, nothing bold or graphic.
• Grasscloth in warm gray, taupe, or soft blue adds depth without competing.
• Avoid large florals, bold geometrics, murals, or anything that reads as a 'statement.' Metallic or pearlescent finishes in moderation only.

• Warm whites for the majority of walls — Benjamin Moore White Dove (OC-17), Sherwin-Williams Alabaster (SW 7008), or similar warm undertone whites.
• Greige (Revere Pewter, Accessible Beige) for den or bedroom warmth.
• Soft blue-gray (BM Gray Owl, SW Repose Gray) for bathrooms or bedrooms — note that bluer tones like Palladian Blue or Sea Salt start leaning Coastal.
• Warm taupe for accent walls or studies.
• Trim and millwork in semi-gloss or satin warm white, matching wall white or one shade crisper.
• Ceilings in flat white, same as walls or one shade lighter.
• Avoid stark cool whites, bold saturated accent walls, or dark dramatic colors (unless intentional in a study or powder room).

• Flat or slight sheen (eggshell) paint in warm white matching walls for clean continuity.
• Coffered ceilings in formal spaces — beam depth of 3" to 6" with simple flat-panel detail between beams, not ornate.
• Grid spacing typically 3' to 4' on center depending on room proportions.
• Tongue-and-groove planking (5" to 7" wide boards) in painted white or natural light wood for family rooms and covered porches.
• Crown molding at ceiling line — 4" to 6" profile for standard 9' ceilings, scale up to 6" to 8" for 10'+ ceilings.
• Simple ogee or cove profile, not stacked or multi-piece.
• Tray ceilings with a single clean step, 2" to 6" drop from the perimeter.
• Avoid heavy ornate medallions, coffering with too many layers, or exposed beam trusses (that's Rustic/Farmhouse territory).

• Wainscoting or board-and-batten in lower third (32" to 36" height) of dining rooms, entries, and hallways — painted white or matching wall color for tonal effect.
• Picture-frame molding (applied moulding rectangles) on upper walls for a traditional nod, keeping proportions generous (24" to 36" wide panels).
• Shiplap sparingly and horizontally — mudrooms or laundry only, not as a signature move (that's Farmhouse).
• Chair rail at 32" to 36" as an alternative to full wainscoting.
• All millwork profiles should be simple — flat stock, subtle ogee, or small cove.
• Avoid overly ornate chair rail, heavy crown-to-baseboard panel systems, or accent walls in contrasting colors.

• Clean-lined sofas with track arms or slim rolled arms, 84" to 96" for standard rooms.
• Upholstered in performance linen, bouclé, or cotton velvet in warm neutrals.
• Accent chairs: updated wingbacks, barrel chairs, or slipper chairs — one pair minimum in living spaces.
• Coffee tables: round or oval in marble, white oak, or walnut, 36" to 48" diameter or equivalent.
• Dining tables: 72" to 96" rectangular or 54" to 60" round pedestal in warm wood with clean base.
• Case goods (nightstands, credenzas) in white oak or walnut with minimal hardware, not matching sets.
• Beds: upholstered platform or simple wood frame, no ornate headboards.
• Scale matters — transitional rooms breathe but aren't sparse.

• Performance linen for primary upholstery — warm neutrals, soft hand, family-friendly.
• Bouclé for accent chairs and throw pillows — adds texture without pattern.
• Cotton velvet in muted tones (dusty blue, warm gray, soft blush) for occasional seating and pillows.
• Linen drapery panels with natural drape and subtle texture.
• Cashmere or wool throws draped on sofa arms, not folded on backs.
• Pillow mix: 2-3 sizes per sofa (20" to 22" square, one lumbar 14" x 20"), tone-on-tone with subtle texture variation, avoid more than one patterned pillow per grouping.
• Performance chenille for family-room seating.
• No heavy damask, busy florals, or matching pillow sets.

• Wool flatweave or hand-knotted in tone-on-tone pattern for living areas — 8' x 10' or 9' x 12' under seating groups, extending 18" to 24" past furniture edges on all sides.
• Jute or sisal as a layering base under smaller patterned rugs, or alone in casual spaces.
• Viscose blend for dining rooms and bedrooms — soft sheen, muted tones, 8' x 10' minimum under dining tables (sized so chairs stay on rug when pulled out).
• Vintage or antique rugs — faded Oushaks and muted Persians work beautifully as collected pieces and add warmth.
• Wool loop pile runners for hallways, 2'6" to 3' wide.
• Rug colors should be warm neutrals — cream, warm gray, taupe, soft blue.
• Avoid bold graphic patterns, heavy-bordered new production Persian rugs, or rugs that dominate the room.
• Every rug should anchor, not compete.

• Solid wood or fiberglass in rich stain (walnut, espresso) or painted navy, charcoal, or black — single or double width.
• Simple raised panel or Shaker profile.
• Sidelight panels in clear or seeded glass.
• Satin brass or brushed nickel hardware — lever or pull handle.
• Simple transom above if height allows.
• Avoid: ornate leaded glass, arched tops, rustic plank, bright colors, oversized pivot doors.

• Carriage-style with clean lines — raised panel or flat panel in painted finish matching trim or body color.
• 8' height minimum.
• Matte black, dark bronze, or brushed nickel hardware (decorative strap hinges and handles).
• Windows in top row — rectangular panes, frosted or clear.
• Avoid: flush modern aluminum, heavy ornate scrollwork, fake wood grain vinyl, oversized glass panels.

• Horizontal lap (HardiePlank or wood) in warm white, greige, or soft gray — 6" to 8" exposure for clean proportion.
• Board-and-batten for vertical accent on gables or entries.
• Natural stone veneer (limestone, ledgestone) on lower facades or chimneys — warm tones, not heavy.
• Painted brick in white or warm gray as full-facade or accent.
• Avoid: vinyl siding, log, heavy rustic stone, bold colors, stucco with heavy texture.

• Architectural asphalt shingle in charcoal, weathered wood, or dark gray — the practical standard with clean profile.
• Standing-seam metal in matte dark bronze or charcoal for modern accent on porches or secondary roofs.
• Slate or synthetic slate for high-end — gray or dark blend.
• Low-to-moderate pitch (6:12 to 8:12) with clean rake and eave detail.
• Avoid: blue or green shingles, barrel tile, flat roofs, cedar shake (too rustic), bright copper.

• Black or dark bronze aluminum-clad wood windows — double-hung or casement with SDL grilles in simple pattern.
• 6-over-1 or 2-over-1 for transitional look — traditional proportions with less grid.
• Large picture windows where views warrant.
• White or warm white trim, 4"-6" flat casing or minimal brick mould.
• Avoid: no-grille windows (too modern), multi-pane colonial grids (too traditional), vinyl frames, round or specialty shapes.

• Wall-mounted lanterns flanking entry — clean geometric forms in matte black, dark bronze, or brushed nickel.
• 16"-20" tall for single-story, 20"-24" for two-story.
• Clear or seeded glass panels.
• Gooseneck or barn-style over garage.
• Recessed soffit downlights at 2700K.
• Landscape path lights in matching finish.
• Avoid: ornate scrollwork, coastal lanterns, ultra-modern cylinders, Edison bulb exposed fixtures.